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Canal Adventures in Mid Wales

Two canals cross Mid Wales, and both are made for slow days out. The Montgomery Canal winds through Welshpool and the Severn valley in North Powys, a quiet, green waterway known for its wildlife. The Monmouthshire and Brecon Canal starts in Brecon and follows the Usk valley through Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons), with mountain views almost all the way. You can take a boat out for the day, paddle, walk or cycle the towpath, fish, or simply sit at a canalside pub and watch the boats go by.

What you can do on the canals

• Boat hire and cruises: day boats, narrowboat holidays and short scenic trips run on both canals. On the Monmouthshire and Brecon, hire bases and trip boats operate from Brecon and the villages along the Usk valley.
• Kayaking, canoeing and paddleboarding: the still, sheltered water is ideal for beginners. You need a Canal & River Trust licence or Paddle UK membership to paddle your own craft; going with a provider covers this.
• Walking: the towpaths are flat, easy to follow and good for all ages.
• Cycling: both towpaths are good for gentle family rides. Ride slowly, ring your bell and give way to walkers.
• Fishing: both canals are popular coarse fisheries; check day tickets and permits with the local angling clubs before you go.
• Wildlife watching: look for kingfishers, herons, dragonflies and damselflies, and otters on quiet mornings.

The Montgomery Canal: Welshpool and North Powys

The Montgomery Canal was built to carry lime and goods between the Shropshire Union network and Newtown. Much of the Welsh section is protected for its rare water plants and wildlife, and the restored stretch either side of Welshpool is one of the most peaceful waterways in Britain.

Where to start

Start at Welshpool, where the canal runs through the middle of town. The old canal wharf is home to the Powysland Museum and Montgomery Canal Centre, and the Welshpool Tourist Information Centre on Church Street is a short walk away. Park in town and join the towpath at the wharf.

Best sections

• Welshpool to Berriew: about five miles south along the towpath, past locks and lift bridges, to the stone aqueduct over the River Rhiw at Berriew. In Berriew, the Andrew Logan Museum of Sculpture sits on Aqueduct Road, a few minutes from the canal, and is full of glass, mirrors and sparkle.
• Berriew to Garthmyl: a quiet rural stretch with the Severn alongside. The Nags Head Inn at Garthmyl, a Grade II listed coaching inn, is a few yards from the canal and has long been a stopping place for canal users.
• North of Welshpool: the towpath heads towards Pool Quay and the English border through flat water meadows. Combine it with a visit to Powis Castle and Garden on the edge of town.

Where to eat and stay

Tastes of Wales on Church Street in Welshpool is a licensed tearoom serving brunch, light lunches, cakes and afternoon tea made with Welsh produce. The Royal Oak Hotel, a 350-year-old coaching inn in the centre of town, has 24 bedrooms and a restaurant serving local, seasonal food. For dinner further along the canal, The Nags Head Inn at Garthmyl has an AA Rosette restaurant and a terraced garden.

The Monmouthshire and Brecon Canal: Bannau Brycheiniog

The "Mon and Brec" follows the Usk valley along the side of the hills, so it has very few locks and wide views of the mountains. Most of it lies inside the National Park, which makes it one of the most scenic canals in the UK.

Where to start

Start at the canal basin in Brecon, next to Theatr Brycheiniog, where boat trips and hire boats set off. The towpath leaves the basin heading south-east towards Talybont-on-Usk.

Best sections

• Brecon to Talybont-on-Usk: about seven flat miles, crossing the River Usk on the Brynich Aqueduct. This stretch shares the route with the Taff Trail, so it's popular with cyclists. Talybont has canalside pubs and a lift bridge, and you can walk back or arrange a lift.
• Talybont to Llangynidr: through the Ashford Tunnel and down the Llangynidr locks, a lovely wooded section with views across the valley.
• Llangattock and Crickhowell: the wharf at Llangattock, with its old lime kilns, is a short walk across the Usk bridge from Crickhowell, a small town with independent shops, pubs and cafes.

Paddling in Bannau Brycheiniog

If you'd like to try paddleboarding or canoeing with an instructor, Black Mountain Adventure at Three Cocks, near Brecon, runs sessions for beginners and families alongside caving, gorge walking and mountain biking.

Where to eat and stay

In Brecon, The Castle of Brecon Hotel stands in the grounds of the old castle with views over the Usk to Pen y Fan, a few minutes' walk from the canal basin. The Coach House on Orchard Street is a five-star townhouse with a garden and hosts who know the best local walks. At the Crickhowell end, The Bear Hotel has welcomed travellers for 500 years and serves hearty food made with local produce, and the Dragon Inn on the High Street has 15 en-suite rooms and a bar and restaurant serving Welsh dishes all day.

A canal weekend in Mid Wales

The two canals are about an hour and a half apart by car, so it's easy to do both in a long weekend. Spend day one in Welshpool, walking or cycling the towpath to Berriew and back with lunch at Tastes of Wales and dinner at the Royal Oak or The Nags Head. On day two, drive south to Brecon and walk or cycle the towpath to Talybont-on-Usk. On day three, take a boat out from Brecon or paddle with an instructor, then finish with dinner in Crickhowell.

Good to know

• Towpaths can be muddy and narrow in places after rain; wear sensible shoes, and keep children close to the water's edge and dogs on leads near locks.
• Narrowboats go at walking pace (no more than 4mph). No previous experience is needed to hire a day boat; you'll be shown how to handle it and work the locks before you set off.
• Welshpool has a station on the Cambrian Line. There is no railway station in Brecon, but buses connect it with Abergavenny station.
• More ideas on our cycling and things to do in Welshpool pages.