Autumn in Mid Wales

Autumn in Mid Wales runs from late September to the end of November. It's the season for golden valleys, waterfalls in full flow, red kites over the hills and evenings by the fire. Across Powys, Ceredigion and Southern Eryri (Southern Snowdonia), the lanes go quiet after the summer holidays and the places that were busy in August have room again. In Welsh, autumn is hydref.

Is Mid Wales good for an autumn break? Yes, if what you want is walking, quiet and somewhere warm to come back to. Most people come for a few days of walks in the hills and valleys, a pub supper and a proper night's sleep. Here's where to go and what to look out for.

Where to see autumn colour

The Elan Valley near Rhayader in Central Powys is one of the best places in Wales for autumn colour. Oak and birch woods run down to a chain of reservoirs built more than a century ago to supply Birmingham, and the road past the Caban Coch, Garreg Ddu, Pen y Garreg and Craig Goch dams turns copper and gold through October. Start at Cwm Elan, the Elan Valley Visitor Centre, for maps, a café and the riverside path.

Hafren Forest, west of Llanidloes, is where the River Severn begins. Waymarked trails follow the young river through the forest, where the larch turns orange in late autumn, down to the waterfall known as Severn-break-its-neck.

The Mawddach Trail follows an old railway line for about nine and a half miles from Dolgellau to Barmouth along the estuary in Southern Eryri. It's flat, so it suits most walkers and cyclists, and the oak woods around Penmaenpool are at their best in October. Colour usually peaks from mid October into early November, depending on the weather. Find more routes on our walking routes page.

Waterfalls in full flow

Autumn rain means the waterfalls are at their loudest. At Devil's Bridge in the Ceredigion uplands, 12 miles inland from Aberystwyth, the 300ft Mynach Falls drop through a wooded gorge below three bridges built one on top of another. The steps on the Devil's Bridge Waterfalls nature trails are steep, so wear good boots. You can get there from Aberystwyth on the Vale of Rheidol Railway, a narrow-gauge steam line that climbs 680ft over 12 miles.

Dolgoch Falls in Southern Eryri sits on the Talyllyn Railway between Tywyn and Abergynolwyn, with a path up through the woods from Dolgoch station. In Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons), the Four Falls Trail near Ystradfellte passes four waterfalls on the Mellte and Hepste rivers. Paths get slippery after rain, so take your time.

Dark skies and stargazing

Longer nights make autumn a good time for stargazing. The Elan Valley is an International Dark Sky Park, Bannau Brycheiniog is an International Dark Sky Reserve, and so is Eryri, which takes in the hills around Dolgellau and Bala. On a clear, moonless night away from the towns you can see the Milky Way with your own eyes.

Hay Bluff, on the eastern edge of Bannau Brycheiniog, is a good spot with a wide horizon. For a guided evening, Serydda runs stargazing experiences and night photography workshops near Tregaron in Ceredigion. Our stargazing page has more places to go.

Wildlife in autumn

Red kites are easy to see in Mid Wales all year. At Gigrin Farm, half a mile from Rhayader, the kites are fed every day of the year, at 2pm from the end of October, and around 500 come in during the colder months.

Grey seals have their pups from September to November. Look down into the coves from the Wales Coast Path around New Quay on the Ceredigion coast, keep well back from the cliff edge and keep dogs on a lead. Red squirrels still live in the Tywi Forest, though you'll need patience to see one, and the Mawddach estuary fills with wading birds as the weather turns. See our wildlife and nature page for reserves and trails.

Cosy stays, pubs and log fires

After a day out, most people want a fire, a good meal and a comfortable bed. Plenty of self-catering cottages across Mid Wales have wood burners, and country pubs light the fire when the evenings draw in. Browse places to stay with open fires and log burners, or find somewhere with a hot tub for an evening under the stars.

Autumn is quieter than summer, so there's usually more choice. School half term weeks go first, and midweek stays are often easier to find.

Food and drink in season

Autumn is harvest time. Farm shops fill up with local apples, squash and root vegetables, game appears on pub menus and Sunday roasts come into their own. The season closes with the Royal Welsh Winter Fair at the Royal Welsh Showground in Llanelwedd, Builth Wells, at the end of November, with livestock, a food hall and early Christmas shopping.

October half term

Half term is a good week for steam trains and woodland trails. The Talyllyn Railway, the Vale of Rheidol Railway and the Welshpool and Llanfair Light Railway all run through Mid Wales, so check their autumn timetables before you go. For wet days, King Arthur's Labyrinth and Corris Mine Explorers near Machynlleth take you underground. Keep an eye on our family events listings for Halloween trails and half term activities.

Good to know

The Cambrian Line runs from Shrewsbury through Welshpool, Newtown and Machynlleth to Aberystwyth, with a branch along the coast through Tywyn and Barmouth. The Heart of Wales Line crosses Powys through Knighton, Llandrindod Wells and Llanwrtyd Wells. Days are shorter, so plan walks to finish before dark and carry a torch. Some attractions change their hours after October half term, so check opening times before you travel.

Autumn here isn't about fitting everything in. Walk in the morning, eat well, get back before the light goes and let the evening look after itself. Check your dates and come and settle in for a few days.